stangin2005 wants to know: “I’m looking for the best lowering springs I can get for my 2005 Mustang GT without having to buy all sorts of camber and caster adjusters. I want the best ride quality possible!! What springs do you recommend and can I go an inch and a half?”
Great question, stangin! Lowering your Mustang has a number of benefits, the most noticeable being appearance and performance. By lowering the vehicle, you lower the center of gravity, which greatly improves handling and reduces body roll & nose-dive. Unsightly wheel gap is also eliminated, giving your Stang a sleek, intimidating look (especially over a set of 17”, 18” or 19” wheels).
Lowering kits that are designed solely for performance gains often make big sacrifices when it comes to ride quality, and lowering the car more than 1.5” will require caster/camber plates and a ball joint kit to properly realign the suspension. Considering you want to maintain decent ride quality, I’d recommend the Eibach Pro-Kit; match it with the Eibach Pro-Damper kit or a set of Tokico shocks & struts and you’ve got a great performance suspension without sacrificing ride quality, or rattling your teeth out of your skull!
The Eibach kit lowers the front 1.3” and the rear 1.4” (approximately), so a simple alignment after installation should be all you need to get your pony rolling again. This is the same set of lowering springs that we installed in our 2011 Mustang project car, and we’ve taken that car both to the track and the grocery store. Best of luck with your suspension and keep the questions coming!
Michael Gross’s 2004 Mach 1!
Michael’s azure blue Mach 1 features 18X9 and 18X10 Bullitt wheels paired with a set of Michelin tires. When he picked the Mustang (which he calls his “play toy”) up it had about 37,000 miles on it and was far from the modded beast it is today. The Mach 1 sports a P-1SC ProCharger that’s intercooled at approximately 10lbs, 42lb injectors, a Wallbro 260 fuel pump, and a Kenne Bell BAP. Kooks long tube headers and catted x-pipe, and an SLP Loudmouth Mustang catback system make sure you can hear Michael coming. A PHP intake spacer, an SCT handheld tuner (with a custom tune), and 4.10 gears round out the performance mods.
The Mach’s interior, exterior, and suspension have all been customized, too. Michael’s added Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates, H&R springs, and Bilstein shocks. He’s also performed an 03/04 Cobra IRS conversion and added subframe connectors. Not content with a stock-appearance sleeper, the exterior has a hood stripe, a 1″ shaker raise, a shorty antenna, and Luminics headlights and fog lights and the windows are tinted. On the interior, the rear seat has been deleted, Michael’s added an LED shift light, Phantom II boost and vacuum gauges, and an MGW short shifter. Billet interior knobs, a Mach 1 rubber trunk mat and floor mats, and an FR500 steering wheel round out the build.
Think your pony has what it takes to be the October Ride of the Month? Submit your entry before Saturday, September 25th. Entries are only good for a month, so make sure you submit yours again if you didn’t win for September.
Our annual company picnic usually features awesome food, insane prizes and games, all tied-in with familiar faces. It’s a great opportunity to get together on the weekend and unwind as a company (and watch the office employees destroy the warehouse employees at Tug-of-War). This year, we decided to introduce our very first employee-only car show at the event. We found out very quickly that our employees were more concerned about what goes on AFTER the show! …and what would a car show be without a bunch of leftover tire?
427RStangg wants to know: “In my s/c Roush, what gear ratio would you recommend? I have friends who say that 4.10 gears are way too steep for my car? It’s a manual.”
When choosing aftermarket Mustang gears (or any aftermarket mod), it’s important to consider what type of driving you do/want to do with the car, how much power you currently make, and how much power you intend to make.
Aftermarket rear-end gears are designed to get you off the line faster, so you’re going to burn through first gear (and second… and third…) much more quickly than with your stock gears. This isn’t as much of a hassle with an automatic transmission because you aren’t the one shifting, but if your Mustang is a stick and you do any kind of driving in a city or heavy traffic, you’d be wise to avoid the steeper ratios. Considering your pony is already super charged, I would have to side with your friends and recommend the 3.73 gears; they’ll give you the extra kick off the line that you want without making driving a chore.
When installing aftermarket gears, it’s always a good idea to get a bearing kit and replace the shims, bearings, and other items that wear out over time. This will complete your rear-end rebuild and make sure you keep that rubber burning for a long time.
The 2010 AmericanMuscle car show is almost here! In just 3 weeks, you could be hanging out with hot girls, surrounded by awesome Mustangs. If that’s not enough to interest you, when you register you’ll get free food, a free swag bag, free raffle tickets for thousands of dollars of prizes, and an awesome car show t-shirt (also free!).
Earlier this week, we had the pleasure of hosting our smokin’ hot AmericanMuscle 2011 calendar shoot (featuring the AM girls) right outside my office door! The warehouse doors were plastered with warnings: “Photo Shoot In Progress – Do Not Disturb!” Yeah… right…! As many of our Facebook fans know, we’ve been giving a behind-the-scenes look at the daily happenings at our headquarters. However, when I put my job on the line and leaked THIS photo of one of the sizzling hot models, here is what our female Facebook friends had to say:
Does your Mustang put down over 800 horsepower to the wheels? Can it run 9’s on drag radials and stop at the drive-thru for dinner on the way home? AmericanMuscle and 5.0 Mustang and Super Fords Magazine have teamed up to find the fastest and baddest TRULY streetable Mustangs in the world! Are you ready to throw down?
From time to time, someone will ask us “Why does my car put out 290 horsepower on the dyno if it was rated at 300 horsepower stock?” Dyno results can be confusing for anyone who hasn’t read up on the topic. How can the same car put down different numbers just because the dyno manufacturer isn’t the same? These answers are simple much easier to understand if you know how a dyno calculates or measures horsepower and torque.
Grand Prize Winner: Ron’s 2009 Bullitt!
Wheel style & size: 18 x 9 and 18 x 10
Tire brand & size: NT555 255/45 & 285/40
Ron’s Mustang Bullitt has an impressive list of modifications. An Edelbrock E-Force Street-Legal Supercharger has bumped his dyno numbers up to 427RWHP and 396 RWTQ. With a Dynotech 3.5″ aluminum driveshaft, a BMR driveshaft loop and 4.10 Ford Racing gears, Ron’s making the most of all that horsepower. In order to help him harness all that power, the Bullitt now features a Steeda adjustable panhard rod, a CHE K-frame brace with Q-Limiters, BMR billet lower control arms, and Koni Yellow shocks and struts.
Ron hasn’t neglected his Bullitt’s appearance for the sake of performance, though. He’s added sequential tail lights and satin tail light trim, plus a chrome surround for the rear panel and a blackout panel. DG window louvers, smoked front turn signals with stealth bulbs, and SHR lower grille inserts round out his exterior mods. In terms of the interior, the ’09 features Autometer wideband air/fuel and boost gauges on an SOS double gauge pillar mount.
Congratulations go out to Rasiel Sabido, who won our Name That Part and Win contest! Rasiel’s name was drawn from a pool of everybody who guessed all six of the parts correctly, and he’ll get to choose one of the parts below as his prize. Not sure if your guesses were correct? Check our handy answer key below to find out! Click each picture to see what part it is.